Passionate Praveer: Exploring Few Hoysala Temples on way to Shivamogga

Hoysalas are the greatest makers & builders of Karnataka. Their period is approx from 1000CE to 1300CE. Any nook & corner you go in Karnataka you will be greeted with intricately sculpted temples. Each one is unique, beautiful, scientific, amazing geometrical symmetry, architectural marvel. The intricacy in soap stone carving is extraordinary. It is world famous and unique. One will wonder if they could carve such intricate designs in stone, what would be their achievement in gold jewelry works? Hoysala temples are well spread from North Karnataka to South. Of course Belur, Halebid in Hassan attract lot of foreign and local tourists. But there is much to explore across Karnataka. Just in the outskirts of Bangalore Bhoga Nandishwara temple on way to Nandi Hills is an example of their fine art. Chola dorai Rajendra Chola installed the Linga and built first temple, later expanded by Chalukyas and Hoysalas. It is a must visit for Bangaloreans.

The way to Shivamogga from Bangalore is pothole ridden. But the way is beautiful and green all the way in Mansoon. And off track you get dozens of Hoysala temples. We mapped our trip plan to cover only 3 famous ones on the way – (1) Kaidala just outskirts of Tumkuru, (2) Shiva temple in centre part of Arasikere, (3) Amrutheshwara temple in Amruthapura just before Tarikere.

After attending the marriage function in Shivamogga for which we went primarily we also visited Koodali village. It is where the Tunga and Bhadra sangama happens. It is a beautiful place.

In Koodali village at the Sangama, bathing ghat is constructed in ancient times and well maintained by both Madhwa & Smartha Brahmins who have mutts there. But hordes of Muslim youth were fishing there when we went at mid noon for a holy dip. We had slight altercation as they were scaring us away. We felt very bad. Why can they not build their own fishing ghats and leave the Brahmins place tidy? In the name of equality, dirtying holy places? When we enquired at the mutt, they said they have complained it to the authorities. We suggested them to put a board at least not to do fishing in our sacred bathing ghats. Hope someone listens.

On the way back from Shivamogga we came via Honnali, Harihara & Davanagere. On way to Honnali we visited Komaranahalli Ranganatha devalaya. This is a punya kshetra where one of the great Haridasa Mahile ‘Helavana Katte Giriyamma’ lived & submitted many Dasapadagalu to Ranganatha which we even today sing during our Pooja. It goes to show, there was no women discrimination during any medieval or ancient times as guilty Indian intellects depict. We have many Haridasa Mahila in our rich history.

Honnali Rayara Mutt is another Punya Kshetra. Honnali is very dear to me as I had done my primary schooling there. I visited my school. Harihareshwara temple in Harihara is another magnificient Hoysala temple we visited while returning.

Idol Disfiguring: Who did?

We observed all the idols in the outer walls were disfigured in Arasikere Shiva temple and Amrutheshwara temple. Especially their faces where chipped. So we enquired with the guides in both places. The answer baffled us. He said, some internal fights sir. Shiva followers hit Vishnu figures, Vishnu followers hit Shiva figurines!! But the same temple shows extraordinary harmony, by having Shiva Purana and Vishnu Purana sculpted. Besides, there are inscription stones lying there in temple complex showing Mahaveera, Shiva Linga also.

Answer in Amrutheshwara was that some cowherds without valuing idols had hit figurines. He himself was saying they have hit only faces, not Gopuras, Crowns etc.,

Why would cowherds chip Krishna’s face who is a Gopala himself?

When we prodded further, then he said, may be when Mohammadans invaded Halebid which was capital of Hoysalas, they had sent some army contingents to these temples to do their bit of service to Islam.

Islam is against idolatry. In all its holy scriptures it declares destruction as a holy job. All the Islamic kings took pride in becoming a ‘Ghazi’ a title given to one who destroys maximum idols & idol worshippers.

They themselves are proud of this act of barbarism and boast it. Even today they are destroying ancient UN protected temples in Syria and Iraq. Then why our guards & guides lie? Are they told to lie? If so why? Is it to appease Muslims? Or is it not to instigate anger & hatred amongst Hindus against Muslims? In this overdo to please Muslims are we not hurting ourselves?

I asked who his Kuladeva is, for which he said, Shiva. I asked him if he would destruct Vishnu’s idol then. He retorted with shock – NO! Then who would do that? Which Hindu preacher or king or mutt would do that? In Hindus we have the culture of respecting others Gods. We call our God supreme but don’t destruct or hate others Gods. But still who amongst Hindus in Government is poisoning these innocent minds?

I thought only education department is guilty of India, but archeological department is even more guilty of its ancient past!! The custodian and presenter of India’s greatness itself is denigrating India’s peace loving nature of its natives.

Sociology & Science of Temple building:

All the dynasties, kings in India encouraged the temple building. Especially in Karnataka, dynasties made magnificent contributions in temple building. The Rashtrakutas sculpted the Ellora Kailasanatha temple. Then came the Chalukyas, then Hoysalas and finally Vijayanagara kingdom. The sculpture reached zenith of artistry in Hoysala times.

Sociology aspect: For an artist it takes a few months to sculpt a beautiful figurine in stone. That means in thousands of villages and towns, the people supported thousands of artisans for hundreds of years together to sculpt the entire temple. They fed them, sheltered them. The temples are generally named after the chieftains after whom it is dedicated. Like Amrutheshwara, Bhairalingeshwara etc.,

Imagine building a great temple, maintaining it for hundreds of years. It brings all people together. Most of the temples you will observe on the floor some board games, lines & dots. It indicates that it was a place of recreation. You will find more board games than your mobile games! You will see some fine dip in those floor stones. It is for making medicines by roller stones upon it. They are so much worn, that it sure are used for thousands of years. History in India says, that even when kings fought, they fought in the war field but never destructed each other’s temples. Temples were preserved. That’s why you see thousand year old temples but you don’t see palaces. Personal wealth always goes away. Community wealth stays long.

Take for example, the Bhoga Nandishwara temple near Bangalore. It is built around 8^th cent CE. The temple complex is very very large. It has many mantaps (shop kinda structure). It means it was a place of congregation of large number of people for all these years. Even today village marriages, community functions, getting together happen in this temple.

Every day some religious function all 360 days a year for last 1000+ years!!!. What harmony! Can you imagine?

Temples have stood uniting people for yeomen years. Don’t listen to those guilty Indians if they say there is discrimination, there is hatred all around us. It is only with them.

Scientific aspect: Then there are those guilty Indians who say there was no science in India. Science they say was rudimentary. You stand in front of these magnificent temples and say that. You cannot. It epitomizes, fine geometrical structures, absolute symmetry. That dome in Arasikere temple is very unique in all Hoysala temples. It is supported by 18 finely carved pillars with large open area in middle without a mid-pillar. How? The guide will show you how they used interlocking system to interlock tons weighing rocks. No patch work. Perfect locks withstanding all rock dome weight for a millennium!!!

I have asked in many Hoysala temples how they did fine lathe turned pillars. So many concentric circles, varying girth making it curvy; Did they have such heavy machines which could hold a rock of multiple tons and turn it around? Where are they now? Where is evidence? I have not got answers yet.

We must understand that all science in ancient India was developed for social harmony. But modern science is science of destruction. Highways for accidents, bridges for collapsing, dams for submerging, cell phones for Pokemon Go!!!


Narasimha Mukha Ganesha Bhoga Nandishwara Temple in Nandi Grama	A beautifully crafted pillar in Nandishwara temple; All birds making up a design


Gopura of Nandishwara temple A beautiful pic in sky background	This emblem is common in Odissi temples. How it came here? Were artisans going all over India? Man-riding-lion-riding-elephant. Man is greed, lion is power, elephant is prosperity

Harihareshwara temple: Epitome of harmony. The main deity is half Hari & half Hara. Who says Shaivaites & Vaishnavaites cut each other?
	Geometrical Symmetry: Symmetry at overall temple building level, then in Gopura. The symmetry at each angle in a finely crafted pillar is simply astounding.


The dome structure in Arasikere Shiva temple. The top concrete is also original 11th cent CE!!	Inscription stones & Hero Stones. A typical hero stone (Veeragallu) shows veera marana in war, then he is being carried to swarga & then becoming Shiva sharana in Kailasa!!

Above: Faces chipped and disfigured by Mallik Kafur's army soldiers on instructions to disfigure as many figurines as possible in a short while before decamping. Right figures: Ramayana, Mahabharata, Bhagavata are all finely crafted scene by scene in tablets. Imagination of artists to represent, river crossing, falling to donkey's feet not to shout are all extraordinary.


You find lot of recreational board games in every temple floor. This indicates their social gathering & gaming in temples for time pass	Fine lathe turned pillars. Polish is still shining. You wont find this technology in Vijayanagar times. So the technology died between those 2 periods? If so why? how? Are we declining in science & technology era by era?