The Pune trip was filled with history and heritage. We visited several
forts, read and heard great stories of the Great Maratha Shivaji Maharaj.
It was not the best of the weather. It was summer & dry, but it
wasn’t too hot to dampen our spirits. The best time to visit would be the
monsoon or post monsoon.
We visited the following forts:
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Raigad fort
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Shivaneri fort
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Pratapgad fort
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Sinhagad fort
There are 100 s of forts along the Sahyadri ranges, which Shivaji
Maharaj captured, constructed and ruled during his reign. His forts are mostly
strategically located atop some of the most dreaded hills. He built few sea
forts also in islands. He probably is the first Indian ruler to envisage the
importance of building Naval force & built it. He is considered as master
strategist, Yugapurush, Visionary to reinstate the Hindavi Swarajya. At a time
when Vijayanagara Hindu Samrajya had a spectacular fall, Mughal Shahi ruling
the north, Adil Shahi, Qutub Shahi ruling the deccan, it seems Shivaji
literally rose from the ashes of the Hindu dust. The story of Shivaji is one of
adrenaline rushing, roller coaster ride for someone interested. You can hold
full attention of the kids telling his story of raise, fall and raise.
Raigad Fort
This was the second capital of Shivaji and this is where he died his
natural death when he was around 50 years age. It is about 130Kms from Pune but
takes more than 3hrs to reach by car. We have to go through some of the most
scenic ghats. There is a river which makes a beautiful pearl necklace turn
around a hill on the way. While returning it was full moon day and it dazzled
under the moonshine in the surrounding dark hills creating a beautiful
contrast. I was too wonderstruck to take a photo.
The fort is built on a flat surface of about 100 acres above the top of
a hill. We have to reach the top via a rope way. The other way is by about 1500
steps. The guide tells, it was a very rich capital during those days. There is
a super market street in ruins where they used to trade jewelry, exotic metals,
minerals, pearls. The durbar hall is very large and they have installed a
sculpture of Shivaji sitting in Veerasana on the throne. We paid respects to
the great ruler there. Shivaji ruled from here in his last years for about 12
years. His throne had about 1280kg of gold. The British after winning over the
Maratha kingdom looted and burnt the palace. The palace is believed to have
burnt for 11 days.
Why British Looted and Burnt Down the Royal Riches of the Maratha?
Even in Sinhagad we heard the same story. That the British
brought down a magnificent palace there. The loot is understandable as a
barbaric loot of wealth. But why burn down the palace? Was it piercing their
ego? Or was it a standing symbol of Swarajya (Self Rule) which might raise
Swathanthrya (freedom) consciousness amongst the masses? Did they strategically
burn it down to make them feel pitiful? Why did they not do the same in Mysuru,
Bengaluru or Royal Rajasthan palaces? Was it because they were friendly &
accepted their superiority & paid rich tributes?
Shivaneri Durga
Shivaji was born here. Shivai Devi temple is there atop the hill after
whom he believed to be named after. Jijabai, his mother played crucial role in
raising the Swathanthrya, Swarajya consciousness in the young Shivaji. He grew
up under able guidance of the highly experienced aged warrior called Dadaji
Kondadev here. There is a bronze statue of Young Shivaji with his mother here.
We pay tribute to the great mother to have given a great son to the Swarajya.
Her own story of sacrifice moves ones heart with great pride in the story of
Shivaji.
We visited the Junnar Caves near by the fort. The caves are typical of
the buddist style. During the later years it has become a piligrim centre for
Hindus as one of the Ashta Vinayakas is installed and worshipped in one of
these caves. The central hall is very large about 300ft width and 200ft depth.
It is very cool inside as it is carved right in the middle of large mountain.
Pratapgad Fort
This is the fort where the real valour of Shivaji was first witnessed by the world at large by how he killed Afzalkhan. When the young Shivaji became a rebel to the
Bijapur kingdom, capturing many forts and declaring Swarajya in the surrounding
villages of the Sahyadris, they sent their best general to quell the rebellion.
The story of killing of this ferocious general gives the glimpse of Shivaji’s
tenacity, tactics, patience, ultimate bravery of taking upon directly on the
barbaric general. This episode established the young Shivaji as a force to
reckon with in the Deccan.
This fort is very well maintained privately by the kin of
Shivaji Maharaj. This is a living fort with the guides, poojars, shop keepers
living inside the fort based on tourism. The fort is in the Mahabaleshwar
hills. So it is an easy visit for those visiting the exotic hill station. There
are beautiful view points in the hill station. The various facets of the rugged
Sahyadris is breath taking and beautiful.
The fort is built by Shivaji himself in straight 2 years in
this strategic place. It is a fine example of his project management acumen.
All the neo jargons of management viz., person day effort, shift based round
the clock work, minimum input maximum output, sustainable product with minimal
maintenance are standing examples there. You got to see it to believe it. Government
has gifted one magnificent bronze mounted statue of Shivaji which is installed
at the top of the fort.
Sinhagad Fort
This fort is just at the outskirts of Pune. There is NDA (National
Defense Academy) out here. You get past a beautiful large lake at the base of
the hill and climb one of the toughest climbs even in car. The story is that of
Tanaji Malasure here. He died a martyr while winning the fort in a fiercely fought
battle. The story depicts the sacrifice & great valour of the Mawal
warriors of the region willing to win over the swarajya & provide
unstinting support for their benefactor Shivaji Maharaj.
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Lokamanya Tilak bought a house at the top inside this fort
& lived here for some time. I wondered what made him take this tough
decision. It is a very tough climb to reach here from Pune. It is very
treacherous lonely living. The British had already made this place a hell by
destroying a palace and other fortifications. Tilak is understood to have used
it as his summer residence and wrote Geeta Rahasya.
The trip album is here: https://plus.google.com/photos/110449838432121172507/albums/6137186002538111777
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Other places of interest we visited are:
- Lonavala – Near it we visited the Lohgad Fort & Pawna Dam
- Dhom – There is a Lakshmi Narasimha temple just behind the Dhom dam. Dhom is a small quit village off Mahabaleshwar road near Wai. The serenity of the temple with little pond with ducks, Thirtha coming from Gomukha, connects us with nature. The temple history dates back to the Pandavas period. Dhaumya maharishi’s abode is there inside temple premises.
- Siddhagiri Matha Museum or Kaneri Matha at the outskirts of Kolhapur – Exceptionally well set up Grameena Jeevana in beautiful Wax tableaux. It is very good to learn the old traditions & introduce them to the kids. It has good set of figurines of ancient Rishis and their contributions to the world of science.
