Konark is a small discrete village in the coastal Odisha. It boasts of
the world’s one of the finest piece of architecture called The Sun Temple. The
temple is in ruins now. But what is left itself is marvelous for us to explore
it with awe.
The entire album with detailed comments is here. Do open each photo
with info to read detail of the photo and place:
The Marvelous Temple Architecture
In its full glory, it stood about 90mts tall. In modern perspective it
is about 30 floors high. It is built in typical Odisha style. The front Mukha
Mantapa is in Dravidian style standing in tact today with 45 mts high. The main
sanctum sanctorum which stood 90m tall is collapsed now. It is believed to have
housed the main deity Surya bhagwan. Both of these together form typical Odisha
style of temple architecture which is typical in Lingaraja temple in
Bhubaneshwar, Puri Jagannatha temple etc., All the length and breadth of Orissa
we see similar combination structure.
The legend says, the temple had about 53 thousand tons of Magnet
stacked on the top and bottom to hold the Surya Bhagavan’s Idol in the middle
of the sanctum sanctorum suspended in midair. The temple was constructed on the
confluence of Chandrabhaga river with the sea. The first rays of sun light
everyday was making through the Natya Mandapa and Mukha Mandapa and falling
on the face of the Surya Bhagwan in the Garbagriha. Even through the Uttarayana
and Dakshinayana, Surya changing his course, the temple was built in such a
manner, that the first rays pass through the pillars to fall on the idol
everyday morning
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What remains today of the Konark temple. The front mukha mantaka
& the Natya mandapa only remains. It stands on a plat form which is the
Surya ratha pulled by altogether 24 wheels. Each one of these Chakra also
acts as a Sun Dial depicting the exact time by the minute based on the Sun
casting shadow over the wheel by the middle spoke.
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A typical Odisha style temple architecture: A mukha mantapa in the
front in Dravidian style and the main sanctum sanctorum (Vimana) behind it in
exactly double the height w.r.t the Mukha mantapa.
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The Sun Dial Chakras above. And the exquisite carvings on each one of
them depicting Dashavatara, Women folks in various forms, Contemporary life
style, Puranas etc.,
Simha-Gaja: This is at the entrance of almost every
temple. Seems like an emblem of the kingdom. Its variations of representation
adorn all temple outer walls also. Simha = Power & Strength; Gaja =
Prosperity & wealth; It symbolizes that when the power & strength
rides on the prosperity & wealth the humanity suffers. The sculpture has
the man being trampled by the elephant. It is so apt for today.
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The massive iron beams of that era still intact. The ASI is
excavating the area has found thousands of tons of iron alloys of that era
lying orphan in and around the ruins.
It depicts the ancient india’s advancement in Metallurgy.
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The Temple Destruction
The temple is dated around 12th Century CE. The legend says
it was built during one King’s period only by a Kalinga king. The massive iron
alloys lying around indicate that not only the metallurgy was advanced but
should have been industrialized.
The temple having massive magnetic elements in it, being on the coast,
was affecting the navigation of the ships of the Portuguese when they started
going around India in 19th cent CE. So they simply barged in here
and looked around and pulled down the magnets. Legend says, that the temple had
a bad omen during the inaugural ceremony and hence was not being worshipped. It
was guarded just by the locals and was not under any special security from the
local kingdom.
Since the entire structure was balanced upon the magnetic force, the
entire structure collapsed. It is believed that the temple main deity is taken
away & displayed as a common wealth in Albert museum in London. When the
British were ruling the kingdom, they saw further collapse of the structure. To
arrest the further collapse of the structure, the amazing engineering brains,
stuffed sand and rocks inside the remaining structure to withstand it. The
placard in the front erected in 1903 reads their feat.
Modern Vs Ancient Science & Technology
Every educated Indian must ponder whether Indians really had a glorious
past. Did India have advanced science? Was it ubiquitous? Was it accessible to the
common man? If so what was he doing with it? Was he using it for his personal
luxury or for the common good? Who was directing him to use it for common good?
Was the politics of that day only thinking for the common good? Was the
technology developed used for compassionate local cultural enhancement, faith
enhancement? And why not for expansion, destruction, colonization like the Europeans
did?
Did the political leadership pay attention to Geometry, Geology, Metallurgy,
and Industrialization? Was industries and metallurgy developed for building
personal homes, palaces, transportation or for the community good? If the
Science was in realms of only the high & the mighty then why is there no
evidence of such massive palaces standing by the side of the magnificent
temples which dot entire length and breadth of India?
The temple building was considered as holy job by the rulers. As
a side effect it created long sustained jobs for the masses. It developed
scientific temper. It challenged the artisans to excel by their handy work. Most
importantly it brought social harmony through celebrations. Puri Jagannath
temple has a history of continuous celebrations through a millennium. Most
importantly, these edifices build faith amongst people, bonds them, kills their
differences, they come together; Everyday thousands from all caste, creed
throng the temple and take Jagannath’ s blessings and sumptuous meal. Where is
discrimination? Where is intolerance? Everyone, every community has something
to offer to the lord.
For today’s rulers, the temple building is considered as
superstitious dumb act. The government strictly stays away from it. But it
takes the collections from it though. Shameless.
Today, are we using science for compassionate technology building or
for destructive technology? Road, Railways, Massive Airport building for
transporting our raw wealth to everywhere is considered as an economic sense today.
To harness local resources and culture to consume locally is considered stupid
& ancient.
The Trip Itinerary
We flew down to Bhubaneshwar from Bangalore. Travelled in Odisha and
went to Kolkata by bus. Then flew back from Kolkata to Bangalore.
We had a 8 day trip. 3 days in Odisha covering Bhubaneshwar, Puri and
Konark. We stayed at Puri. All 3 places are equidistant at about 60kms from
each other.
Then we went to Kolkata and went to Sundarbans
for 2 days. Kolkata and West Bengal was good and gave us a different perspective.
It is good to see and explore the diverse India & ponder over our heritage
and what we are doing with it. 