Hoysalas are the greatest makers & builders of Karnataka. Their
period is approx from 1000CE to 1300CE. Any nook & corner you go in
Karnataka you will be greeted with intricately sculpted temples. Each one is unique,
beautiful, scientific, amazing geometrical symmetry, architectural marvel. The
intricacy in soap stone carving is extraordinary. It is world famous and
unique. One will wonder if they could carve such intricate designs in stone,
what would be their achievement in gold jewelry works? Hoysala temples are well
spread from North Karnataka to South. Of course Belur, Halebid in Hassan
attract lot of foreign and local tourists. But there is much to explore across
Karnataka. Just in the outskirts of Bangalore Bhoga Nandishwara temple on way
to Nandi Hills is an example of their fine art. Chola dorai Rajendra Chola
installed the Linga and built first temple, later expanded by Chalukyas and
Hoysalas. It is a must visit for Bangaloreans.
The way to Shivamogga from Bangalore is pothole ridden. But the way is
beautiful and green all the way in Mansoon. And off track you get dozens of
Hoysala temples. We mapped our trip plan to cover only 3 famous ones on the way
– (1) Kaidala just outskirts of Tumkuru, (2) Shiva temple in centre part of Arasikere,
(3) Amrutheshwara temple in Amruthapura just before Tarikere.
After attending the marriage function in Shivamogga for which we went
primarily we also visited Koodali village. It is where the Tunga and Bhadra
sangama happens. It is a beautiful place.
In Koodali village at the Sangama, bathing ghat is constructed in
ancient times and well maintained by both Madhwa & Smartha Brahmins who
have mutts there. But hordes of Muslim youth were fishing there when we went at
mid noon for a holy dip. We had slight altercation as they were scaring us
away. We felt very bad. Why can they not build their own fishing ghats and
leave the Brahmins place tidy? In the name of equality, dirtying holy places? When
we enquired at the mutt, they said they have complained it to the authorities.
We suggested them to put a board at least not to do fishing in our sacred
bathing ghats. Hope someone listens.
On the way back from Shivamogga we came via Honnali, Harihara &
Davanagere. On way to Honnali we visited Komaranahalli Ranganatha devalaya.
This is a punya kshetra where one of the great Haridasa Mahile ‘Helavana
Katte Giriyamma’ lived & submitted many Dasapadagalu to Ranganatha which we
even today sing during our Pooja. It goes to show, there was no women
discrimination during any medieval or ancient times as guilty Indian intellects
depict. We have many Haridasa Mahila in our rich history.
Honnali Rayara Mutt is another Punya Kshetra. Honnali is very dear to
me as I had done my primary schooling there. I visited my school. Harihareshwara
temple in Harihara is another magnificient Hoysala temple we visited while
returning.
Idol Disfiguring: Who did?
We observed all the idols in the outer walls were disfigured in
Arasikere Shiva temple and Amrutheshwara temple. Especially their faces where
chipped. So we enquired with the guides in both places. The answer baffled us. He
said, some internal fights sir. Shiva followers hit Vishnu figures, Vishnu
followers hit Shiva figurines!! But the same temple shows extraordinary
harmony, by having Shiva Purana and Vishnu Purana sculpted. Besides, there are
inscription stones lying there in temple complex showing Mahaveera, Shiva Linga
also.
Answer in Amrutheshwara was that some cowherds without valuing idols
had hit figurines. He himself was saying they have hit only faces, not Gopuras,
Crowns etc.,
Why would cowherds chip Krishna’s face who is a Gopala himself?
When we prodded further, then he said, may be when Mohammadans invaded Halebid
which was capital of Hoysalas, they had sent some army contingents to these
temples to do their bit of service to Islam.
Islam is against idolatry. In all its holy scriptures it declares
destruction as a holy job. All the Islamic kings took pride in becoming a ‘Ghazi’
a title given to one who destroys maximum idols & idol worshippers.
They themselves are proud of this act of barbarism and boast it. Even
today they are destroying ancient UN protected temples in Syria and Iraq. Then
why our guards & guides lie? Are they told to lie? If so why? Is it to
appease Muslims? Or is it not to instigate anger & hatred amongst Hindus
against Muslims? In this overdo to
please Muslims are we not hurting ourselves?
I asked who his Kuladeva is, for which he said, Shiva. I asked him if
he would destruct Vishnu’s idol then. He retorted with shock – NO! Then who
would do that? Which Hindu preacher or king or mutt would do that? In Hindus we
have the culture of respecting others Gods. We call our God supreme but don’t destruct
or hate others Gods. But still who amongst Hindus in Government is poisoning these
innocent minds?
I thought only education department is guilty of India, but archeological
department is even more guilty of its ancient past!! The custodian and
presenter of India’s greatness itself is denigrating India’s peace loving
nature of its natives.
Sociology & Science of Temple building:
All the dynasties, kings in India encouraged the temple building. Especially
in Karnataka, dynasties made magnificent contributions in temple building. The
Rashtrakutas sculpted the Ellora Kailasanatha temple. Then came the Chalukyas,
then Hoysalas and finally Vijayanagara kingdom. The sculpture reached zenith of
artistry in Hoysala times.
Sociology aspect: For an artist it takes a few months to sculpt
a beautiful figurine in stone. That means in thousands of villages and towns,
the people supported thousands of artisans for hundreds of years together to
sculpt the entire temple. They fed them, sheltered them. The temples are
generally named after the chieftains after whom it is dedicated. Like
Amrutheshwara, Bhairalingeshwara etc.,
Imagine building a great temple, maintaining it for hundreds of years.
It brings all people together. Most of the temples you will observe on the
floor some board games, lines & dots. It indicates that it was a place of
recreation. You will find more board games than your mobile games! You will see
some fine dip in those floor stones. It is for making medicines by roller
stones upon it. They are so much worn, that it sure are used for thousands of
years. History in India says, that even when kings fought, they fought in the war
field but never destructed each other’s temples. Temples were preserved. That’s
why you see thousand year old temples but you don’t see palaces. Personal wealth
always goes away. Community wealth stays long.
Take for example, the Bhoga Nandishwara temple near Bangalore. It is
built around 8th cent CE. The temple complex is very very large. It has
many mantaps (shop kinda structure). It means it was a place of congregation of
large number of people for all these years. Even today village marriages,
community functions, getting together happen in this temple.
Every day some religious function all 360 days a year for last
1000+ years!!!. What harmony! Can you imagine?
Temples have stood uniting people for yeomen years. Don’t listen to
those guilty Indians if they say there is discrimination, there is hatred all
around us. It is only with them.
Scientific aspect: Then there are those guilty Indians who say there
was no science in India. Science they say was rudimentary. You stand in front
of these magnificent temples and say that. You cannot. It epitomizes, fine
geometrical structures, absolute symmetry. That dome in Arasikere temple is
very unique in all Hoysala temples. It is supported by 18 finely carved pillars
with large open area in middle without a mid-pillar. How? The guide will show
you how they used interlocking system to interlock tons weighing rocks. No
patch work. Perfect locks withstanding all rock dome weight for a millennium!!!
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Geometrical Symmetry: Symmetry at overall temple building level, then in Gopura. The symmetry at each angle in a finely crafted pillar is simply astounding.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The school I studied primary in Honnali. It was always green surrounding and it has maintained till date.